Best Portable Jump Starters
Lithium jump starters that actually crank a dead battery — sized by real amps, not marketing amps.
The most amps per dollar we found: 4000A and a ~99.9Wh pack for about a hundred bucks, with 100W two-way USB-C so it recharges fast and powers a laptop. Priced like a mid-range unit, spec'd like a premium one.
The value pick for people who want the pack to double as a phone/laptop bank: 1500A of starting power plus a 65W USB-C PD port that charges in and out. Full-color display shows exact charge and boost status instead of guessing at LED bars.
The glovebox standard for regular cars: 1000A is plenty for 4- and 6-cylinder gas engines, with the same spark-proof clamps as the pricier NOCO units. Skip it only if you run a large V8 or diesel that wants more amps.
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What matters most to you?
Each answer is derived from the same published sub-scores used in the DriveScore.
Highest DriveScore across the complete category rubric. The value pick for people who want the pack to double as a phone/laptop bank: 1500A of starting power plus a 65W USB-C PD port that charges in and out. Full-color display shows exact charge and boost status instead of guessing at LED bars.
All 5, ranked — deltas vs. the winner
SORTED BY DRIVESCORE
How to actually pick one
The number on the box is almost always 'peak amps,' a meaningless instantaneous spec. What starts your car is sustained cranking current, which reputable brands rarely print. For a 4-cylinder, a 400–800A-class pack is plenty; for a V6/V8, step up to 1000A+; for a diesel, buy a unit that explicitly lists diesel displacement support. Prioritize spark-proof, reverse-polarity-protected clamps — the safety electronics are where cheap units cut corners. Capacity (mAh) matters mostly for how many starts per charge and USB-C PD output for phones/laptops. Store it charged; lithium packs self-discharge and a dead jump starter is useless in an emergency.